Ryedale Woodturners


Paul Jones

Paul Jones

Thursday 5 March 2015

Snainton Woodturning Supplies

 

Paul Jones visited us from Macclesfield, in Cheshire. He was accepted on to the RPT is 2012.

Natural edge long stemmed goblet

Goblet hollowing

Paul chose to turn a long stemmed natural edge goblet, from an unassuming beech log which had been felled a few months ago, and therefore was still quite green.

He started with the log between centres, and turned a long tenon to grip the piece in some long nosed jaws. These offer good leverage given that the tail end of the piece was going to be some distance from the headstock.

After a little truing up to allow an increase in speed, he mounted the piece in the jaws and removed his tailstock, ready to hollow out the cup. Some vibration is inevitable at this distance, but he minimised it by taking small cuts, from the rim towards the centre, with a sharp spindle gouge. The bulk of the log needs to be left intact while the cup is being shaped, to give some stability. The cup had to be sanded and polished because it could not be returned to later. He used quite agressive sanding, which helps to dry out the green wood.

Having hollowed the cup, he then followed the shape on the outside, initially trying his newly purchased Charnwood LED lamp shining in the cup and revealing an orange glow, but he abandoned this in favour of his fingers feeling the thickness of the wall. As some of the wood had dried with his sanding, the light was not uniform between the wet and dry parts remaining.

 

The stem

Goblet

Having completed the cup with very thin walls, Paul used a wad of kitchen towel and a ring centre to bring the tailstock back in to play, not overdoing the pressure but allowing some support while he turned the stem.

He started with the base, and shaped a bead, fillet and cove. This gave him a target to aim for when shaping the stem. He used two skew chisels for the stem: one had a convex grind which worked well on the concave part of the stem, and the other a standard grind which was more suited to the convex parts.

Natural edge gobletAt the top of the stem two beads defined the join between the stem and cup, and Paul was keen to make the shape of the stem run through the lower bead, albeit that this created a slightly thinner than desirable neck to the top of the stem.

Light sanding then removed any tool marks - 120 on the main stem, but only starting at 180 or 240 where detail was involved, to retain its sharpness. And then a coat of oil to bring out the colour in the wood and give a sheen.

The piece was parted off by moving the long tenon out of the chuck half an inch, which also allowed a little decoration on the bottom "to show I was bothered".

Hints and tips
  • When parting off, leave a little raised pip, which can then be removed by slicing with a skew. If you part off level with the final surface, often the grain will twist and create a small hole in the wood.
  • Keep the bulk on pieces like these for as long as possible, finishing each section completely as you move down the piece.